MOUNT DESERT ISLAND, MAINE

The Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island is a jewel in the crown of America's National Parks. After departing Bar Harbor for a mooring at North East Harbor, we spent four glorious days walking around the Park. Free buses leave the harbor every 30 minutes from early morning until dusk.
The park has an extensive network of cycling and walking trails. 45 miles of rustic carriage roads lace the park. John D Rockefeller Jr. wanted to travel on motor-free byways by horse and carriage into the heart of the island and these carriage roads constructed with stone bridges and compacted broken stone surface between 1913 and 1940 were his gift to the park and its visitors. The irony of course is the fact that his ability to fund these carriageways free from motor vehicles came from wealth derived from the Standard Oil Company established by his father.
As we walked along these magnificent carriageways we were grateful for his bequest and kept imagining how beautiful they would be for cross country skiing after a heavy snowfall.
It was now the first week in October, the days were shortening, the weather chilly overnight and we learned that after Columbus Day (Monday October 8) the bus service would end and the park would virtually close down. We needed to sail south as soon as possible but this was a treasure we could not leave just yet.
We had to climb a mountain first. With two days to "shut down" we set off on a memorable walk and climb. We started with an easy stride along the carriageway skirting Bubble Pond surrounded by the brilliant gold and reds of autumn leaves and climbed a steep rocky track to the top of Pemetic Mountain (1,234 feet). The fogs had gone and the clear views of rugged coasts, mountains and lakes were stunning. We lunched at the top and reluctantly descended the other side of the mountain and caught the free bus back to our boat.
Sunday morning was bleak and overcast so as is our custom we set off for the nearest church. We had noticed a sign at the local library that the Society of Friends meeting was held there every Sunday so off we went for our first experience of Quaker worship. We arrived a few minutes late and were ushered into a room where a group of about 20 people were sitting in a circle in total silence. We took our seats in the circle and sat in silence for an hour. Afterwards we were assured that the meetings are not always like that. Sometimes several people speak as they receive enlightenment. We concluded that while an hour of silent prayer was quite OK and a pleasant change from clanging guitars and thumping drums, it is not something we seek as a regular worship diet. Perhaps just a little music and liturgy next time.

On Columbus day we sailed south to Deer Island where we had been invited to pick up a guest mooring owned by Phil and Linda, local Maine residents we first met in Baddeck. We had ordered a new refrigeration unit and had it delivered to their home. It was an easy day sail with a bit of tricky navigation through narrow but well marked channels winding between convoluted islands. We still had to wind our way through a minefield of lobster traps but the day was clear and sunny so it wasn't anywhere near as much fun as in the dense fog. Phil delivered our refrigeration unit to our boat and we spent a day installing it and visiting them in their magnificent two story home just ashore from the mooring. Their help was invaluable and with their assistance we were able to get our empy gas bottle filled just in time to leave on Wednesday October 10. The weather forcast for the next 24 hours was good with gentle to moderate NE winds but deteriorating after that. We felt we needed to move south quickly so sailed overnight to Salem, Massachusetts. We arrived just before the foul weather hit.